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Topic: Sealing a new drive, Polyurethane film coming off.< Next Oldest | Next Newest >
Petroloss
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Posted: 18 Aug. 2016,11:53 QUOTE

I've just had a new drive laid with Marshalls Savannah blocks, with a row of 4" tegula setts as a border one block in from the edge. I had planned to seal it with a polyurethane sealant but the drive guy said it would spoil the drive and he had heard of sealant lifting off and looking pretty bad. Has anyone any ideas on this. My main objective is to stop the surface self seeding of weeds and grass. So it seems like a polyurethane sealant is the best bet rather than a short term fix of an acrylic sealant. Any comments are appreciated as I plan to wait until Spring next year to make sure all the efflorescence has come out.
Thanks, Mike
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R&A Pressure Washing
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Posted: 18 Aug. 2016,16:00 QUOTE

Quote (Petroloss @ 18 Aug. 2016,10:53)
I've just had a new drive laid with Marshalls Savannah blocks, with a row of 4" tegula setts as a border one block in from the edge. I had planned to seal it with a polyurethane sealant but the drive guy said it would spoil the drive and he had heard of sealant lifting off and looking pretty bad. Has anyone any ideas on this. My main objective is to stop the surface self seeding of weeds and grass. So it seems like a polyurethane sealant is the best bet rather than a short term fix of an acrylic sealant. Any comments are appreciated as I plan to wait until Spring next year to make sure all the efflorescence has come out.
Thanks, Mike

Which sealer did you plan to use?
Resiblock is the market leader really for drive sealing, their "Superior" being about the best there is, personally I have never heard of a poly sealer lifting, acrylic's yes as most a crap in my opinion, but that is not to say it can't happen. The thing is with sealing is conditions have to be correct etc, to many people take short-cuts and this is when the problems arise.


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Roger Oakley BDA(Europe)Member 2006
R&A Pressure Washing Services Ltd
info@rapressurewashing.co.uk
www.rapressurewashing.co.uk
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Petroloss
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Posted: 18 Aug. 2016,16:40 QUOTE

Many thanks for your prompt response. I am thinking of using Resiblock Superior matt finish. I've read plenty of good reports about I and it does seem to be the best. I've also read the points about making sure all is clean first, so I plan dot pressure wash it after  a few months to get rid of the efflorescence and then let it dry for at least 3 to 4 days providing the weather is good enough for that. I don't plan to do it until about June next year. Hopefully I can then time it so it has a couple of days to go off after application. Hope I've got all the bases covered but if there is anything else you can think of please let me know. Thanks again for your input. Cheers,
Mike
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R&A Pressure Washing
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Posted: 18 Aug. 2016,21:55 QUOTE

Quote (Petroloss @ 18 Aug. 2016,15:40)
Many thanks for your prompt response. I am thinking of using Resiblock Superior matt finish. I've read plenty of good reports about I and it does seem to be the best. I've also read the points about making sure all is clean first, so I plan dot pressure wash it after  a few months to get rid of the efflorescence and then let it dry for at least 3 to 4 days providing the weather is good enough for that. I don't plan to do it until about June next year. Hopefully I can then time it so it has a couple of days to go off after application. Hope I've got all the bases covered but if there is anything else you can think of please let me know. Thanks again for your input. Cheers,
Mike

Pressure washing alone won't get rid of the efflorescence but don't worry about that for now, as you are IMO doing the right thing, as in leaving the paving to go through a couple of seasons weather wise. So come next year, and lets say all you have is a dirty paving, bit green (algae) and maybe a few weeds starting to show themselves, what you need to do, is give the paving a good clean, use the cleaning mix that I have put up on the stain removal's page on the main site. After you have cleaned the paving, if you did have quite a bit of weed growth, pains taking as it is, apply a weed killer to all the joins/gaps, and leave it to dry out for around 3-4 days weather permitting. Then re-sand & seal in the same day (size dependent here) You need to make sure you have sanded properly so that no sand is sitting on the surface or proud of the joins use a soft bristled brush to re-sand, once you have done this (I now use a leaf blower to make sure the surface is clear of any sand) you can seal the paving, Superior Matt is a good choice.


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Roger Oakley BDA(Europe)Member 2006
R&A Pressure Washing Services Ltd
info@rapressurewashing.co.uk
www.rapressurewashing.co.uk
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Petroloss
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Posted: 19 Aug. 2016,07:17 QUOTE

Thanks for all your help with this. I'll follow all your advice to the letter next Spring.
Cheers,
Mike:)


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N.M.Trowsdale
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ResiblockBoss
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Posted: 23 Aug. 2016,09:21 QUOTE

Hi Mike
Polyurethane sealers will not ‘lift off ‘concrete block paving. However some may dis-bond from clay pavers and perhaps this is what your contractor is referring to? Incidentally I concur entirely with all points made by Roger
Craig


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ResiblockBoss
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Petroloss
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Posted: 23 Aug. 2016,09:28 QUOTE

Hi Craig,
           Many thanks for your expert comments. Good to know and I'll certainly now be using your polyurethane product next Spring. How much will I require for about 42 square metres? I presume it will need 2 coats? It's Marshall's paving blocks and not clay.
Cheers,
Mike


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N.M.Trowsdale
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ResiblockBoss
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Posted: 23 Aug. 2016,09:57 QUOTE

I think the simplest thing would be to get one of my guys to give you a call and run through the options. Resiblock Superior can sometimes be an over-specification and we may have other products which will meet your requirements, but that are cheaper.  If you PM me with your phone number or email address one of the team with get straight back to you
Thanks
Craig


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ResiblockBoss
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