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michaelthegardener
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Posted: 05 July 2015,10:56 QUOTE

im going to be getting a wooden log cabin style workshop soon as ive got the time to get on with it  :D  but im unsure if id be able to do the base myself and also what spec it would need to be  :p  any help gratefully received its going to be approx. 3.5 x 7 m   :)
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seanandruby
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Posted: 05 July 2015,11:41 QUOTE

Michael there is a complete   guide on the index page under concrete bases  ???

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michaelthegardener
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Posted: 05 July 2015,12:27 QUOTE

yes ive seen that so I suppose my only real question is how thick should it be and do I need reinforcement :rock:
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seanandruby
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Posted: 05 July 2015,12:47 QUOTE

100 ml will be fine with a single layer of mesh.

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rxbren
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Posted: 05 July 2015,19:07 QUOTE

Depends whats going in the workshop if yoru putting a car in i would go 150mm with the concrete
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Tony McC
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Posted: 07 July 2015,10:42 QUOTE

The last drawing in this section shows a standard shed base construction.

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michaelthegardener
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Posted: 09 Oct. 2015,07:51 QUOTE

well this has ground to a halt im sorry to say work got in the way so ive only jut got the old shed cleared now ive got to get it taken away ( asbestos )  but I was thinking do you think block paving would do the job to be honest the thought of concrete scares me a bit  not something ive done on that scale and not exactly forgiving is it if I fook up ! also ive seen some blocks on ebay  :D
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rxbren
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Posted: 09 Oct. 2015,09:27 QUOTE

If its has ita own floor you could always run 3 rows of brick or blocks as a footing to build off of
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michaelthegardener
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Posted: 10 Oct. 2015,07:47 QUOTE

not going to have a floor that's extra :D
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seanandruby
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Posted: 10 Oct. 2015,07:48 QUOTE

Quote (michaelthegardener @ 09 Oct. 2015,06:51)
well this has ground to a halt im sorry to say work got in the way so ive only jut got the old shed cleared now ive got to get it taken away ( asbestos )  but I was thinking do you think block paving would do the job to be honest the thought of concrete scares me a bit  not something ive done on that scale and not exactly forgiving is it if I fook up ! also ive seen some blocks on ebay  :D

if it is existing block paving then you are half way there if the existing sub base is sound. i'd do away with the blocks and put in a slab Michael. I wouldn't think concreting to be above your capabilities   :)

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rxbren
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Posted: 10 Oct. 2015,10:31 QUOTE

Concrete slab would be best ideally you want the timber above the surrounding ground are you raising the slab up or running course of brick/block for it to sit on? If its just a flat concrete slab make sure you have the cladding or a flashing/drip tray over the side if the concrete base to send the water away from the workshop
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michaelthegardener
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Posted: 10 Oct. 2015,18:53 QUOTE

all that is there is the old cracked 1974 concrete  I know concrete would be best but was thinking ive done a bit of block paving before but not concrete on this scale
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rxbren
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Posted: 10 Oct. 2015,20:36 QUOTE

Concrete os fairly straight forward build your shutter, fill it, tamp it drag the excess off then finish how ever you want
Depends on the type of finish your after id it was me id do a float finish so its smooth to stand on and easy to brush clean.
I suppose it would all come down to cost and wether you can get someone to help you as for the concrete pad if its 150mm deep your looking around 4m3 of concrete (get it delivered instead of mixing it by hand) so a fair bit of barrowing
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Posted: 11 Oct. 2015,10:50 QUOTE

Michael RX is right
blockpaving will cost you money long term

we did a 4m3 oversite friday  3 barrowing and me levelling it took us 90minutes

however the concrete cost £600 +vat

but a 150 mm deep slab will last the course
LLL :)


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michaelthegardener
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Posted: 13 Oct. 2015,08:02 QUOTE

ok so if it all goes wrong ill blame you lot !:D   im a bugger for ebay and that's where I saw some cheap blocks :D   the workshops costing me 3350 quid so I know youre all right about needing the best base not spending all that for it to sink :0  

One last question though on the main site it says  Maximum size approx 6m x 3m. Should NOT exceed 20m² so what do I do about that ?
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rab1
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Posted: 13 Oct. 2015,17:54 QUOTE

cut an expansion line in the concrete with a saw.

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michaelthegardener
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Posted: 17 Oct. 2015,19:46 QUOTE

dose the joint need to go all the way through the slab ? my mate says we can mix it ourselves I said sod that looking at £612 inc vat so that's fine by me :)  £400 to get rid of the asbestos is a bit steep to me though but got to be done same mate said bury it under the slab :rock: .......
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rxbren
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Posted: 17 Oct. 2015,21:15 QUOTE

try your local council tip as you may be able to dispose of the asbestos there-dependant on if they have the facility plus it would be free as its from your own house although keep water sprayed on it and double bag it plus the usual avoid breaking it/disturbing it too much plus all the relevant paper suit, gloves, googles, high quality dust mask. Personally I keep away from it as much as possible as had an uncle die slowly from asbestosis
as for the cut joint depth of the saw is good, cost of getting it delivered wouldn't be much more than buying the raw materials plus it makes it easier to work with as the whole slab can be finished/worked all together rather than waiting for mixer loads and having the first half of the slab setting before you have finished mixing and pouring the whole thing. Added bonus it would be half hour barrowing vs a few hours mixing and barrowing.
Its not ideal but have seen people leave the slab with out expansion joints then if a crack appears run a cut through it and grano the cut
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michaelthegardener
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Posted: 19 Oct. 2015,06:54 QUOTE

wish I could take it to the tip but
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•Only three sheets or three 2.5kg bags of bonded asbestos will be accepted per visit or per week, whichever is the less. All asbestos must be double wrapped in polythene and sealed with tape


and they wont let me in with the van  :(
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rxbren
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Posted: 19 Oct. 2015,09:29 QUOTE

Have you got much to get rid of?
The tips can be dicks at times about vans all depends who is there
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ruler

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