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Topic: Kerbing measurement advice< Next Oldest | Next Newest >
WeeApprentice
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Posted: 08 Dec. 2016,23:53 QUOTE

Hey everyone I recently started as an Apprentice road worker and really enjoying it but right now as I have just started I'm more like a labourer but learning quickly.

We recently started laying kerb (half battered) mainly and I will hear them saying 5x10s etc and I know I must sound daft but what does 5x10 actually mean in term of measurement.

Cheers lads


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New road working apprentice looking for extra advice, am I too keen?
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digerjones
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Posted: 09 Dec. 2016,00:09 QUOTE

I would think they are measurements ie. 5"x 10" (125mm x 250mm ) buy a tape with imperial measurements on it.

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dylan
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WeeApprentice
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Posted: 09 Dec. 2016,00:19 QUOTE

Quote (digerjones @ 08 Dec. 2016,23:09)
I would think they are measurements ie. 5"x 10" (125mm x 250mm ) buy a tape with imperial measurements on it


Cheers for the quick response, appreciate it mate


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New road working apprentice looking for extra advice, am I too keen?
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seanandruby
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Posted: 09 Dec. 2016,07:26 QUOTE

On rhe back of each kerb should be a number relating to what radius size they are. As said  by digger "get a decent tape measure". Ask for a drawing and study it see where droppers go etc: we all have different names for different size kerbs so need to know what your guys use. It will all fall into place. And use kerb lifter.

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sean
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rxbren
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Posted: 09 Dec. 2016,18:38 QUOTE

Don't spend too much on a tape measure as they don't last long regardless of price
10x5 is height x width depends who your working with but generally 10x5, full kerb, big ones
6x5 bullnose again either 6x5, small ones, "droppers"
Drop kerbs are transition kerbs from full height kerbs to small bull nose
As said on radius kerbs the number is cast into the back number refers to number of meters of the radius so number 3 would be 3m radius to get to 90 degrees
Then you have corner kerbs two types short piece that looks like two kerbs butted together or the "cheese" a 1/4 segment that looks like 1/4 of a cheese these tend to be heavy and awkward thankfully used less these days
Don't butt the kerbs up tight to each other leave a small gap between them around 1mm
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seanandruby
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Posted: 09 Dec. 2016,19:57 QUOTE

look here    

and here


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sean
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lutonlagerlout
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Posted: 09 Dec. 2016,21:33 QUOTE

welcome to the forum Wee apprentice,My apprentice is wee too,5'5" and 52 kg but keen as mustard
its good that you want to learn,too many day dream their day away on social media
one thing I would add is wear PPE at the right time,I have partial hearing now due to being told that ear muffs are for poofters in the 80s when I asked for them

googles ,gloves,ear protection,dust suppression is all there for the working man's benefit,start with the right attitude to PPE and it will pay you back long term
cheers LLL :)


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rxbren
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Posted: 09 Dec. 2016,22:51 QUOTE

As above I wear "bitch mittens" (gloves), steel toe caps WITH steel midsole don't do any site work so don't wear the high viz or hat but probably do so but like 99% of domestic workers dont

Always wet cut stone/concrete (although unfortunately do score he line first dry as everything I've marked with disappears in the water) always ear defenders when needed should wear some masks occasionally
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seanandruby
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sean




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Posted: 10 Dec. 2016,08:26 QUOTE

Quote (rxbren @ 09 Dec. 2016,17:38)
Don't spend too much on a tape measure as they don't last long regardless of price.

Very true. I Never pull a tape out to far, if 5metre i will only pull half that 3 metre max.
Don't rush into trying to lay Weeap', observe EVERYTHING,  you'll be laying soon enough. I leave a trowel width between kerbs to stop spalling. I find with kerb laying it's best to avoid it
 :;):   :)


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sean
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