Joined: July 2004
||Posted: 22 Oct. 2016,11:45
What you have are commonly known as Staffordshire Blue Stable (or Diamond) Pavers. They were probably laid on cinders/ash, originally, and this has decomposed over time and now seems to be just soil.
As they are a clay paver, further complicated by them being an olde product, there will be significant variation in sizes, so no matter what width/length you achieve when 'dry laying' to set out the EverEdge, they will not achieve the same width/length when you come to actually lay them, because you will have used a narrower one where a wider one was used previously, or vice versa.
The only option is to accept that, once you have established an average width/length and set your edging accordingly, when it comes to fitting the pavers, some may need trimming to fit while others will have wider-than-ideal joints. It's all part of the charm of these pavers and nothing to fret about.
I'm not sure how you see the EverEdge supporting the pavement unless it is concreted into place. If they are simply driven into the sub-grade, they *will* move. They'll move when you add the sub-base; they'll move when you compact the pavers; they'll carry on moving over the next god -knows-how-long.When they are used as an edge restraint for, say, gravel or turf, this is of no great consequence, but with block pavements, having what the British Standard refers to "robust" edge restraints is vital.
Of course, you could bed the EverEdge into concrete and that solves the problem, but it also raises the question about just why you are using EverEdge when a simple concrete bedded edge course would do the same job, with less fuss and less cost. Further, by using the Floating Edge method, you can best accommodate those variations mentioned earlier.
Finally, when it comes to compaction of the pavers, you really *must* use a paving mat on the base of the plate compactor or you run the risk of shattering/spalling many of those beautiful blue pavers.
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